Microneedling for Anti-aging, Acne scars and Hair Loss
- Dr. Alpana Mohta
- Jun 19
- 3 min read
Microneedling, also called collagen induction therapy, is one of the most versatile in-clinic procedures for texture, scars, pores, pigmentation, and even hair loss. As a dermatologist who sees both brilliant outcomes and painful mistakes, I’ve pulled together the key facts so you can decide whether to book a professional session or skip the at-home roller.
What Is Microneedling?
Fine, sterile needles create controlled micro-injuries in the skin. Your body responds by laying down new collagen and elastin. When we infuse active ingredients during the treatment, it is often labelled mesotherapy.
Expected Results
Concern | Typical Improvement | Notes |
Fine lines & early wrinkles | Smoother texture | 1–2 sessions for glow, 4–6 for mature skin |
Acne scars & large pores | Shallower scars, tighter pores | Minimum 4 sessions |
Melasma & uneven tone | Gradual brightening | Combine with pigment-regulating topicals |
Stretch marks | Thinner, lighter striae | Depth 1.5–2.5 mm |
Hair thinning | Thicker shafts, higher density | Scalp sessions every 2–4 weeks |
Results are long-lasting because your own collagen does the work, so no frequent top-ups are needed once the series is complete.
Tools and Devices
Device | Needle Depth Range | Typical Use |
Dermapen | 0.25–2.5 mm | Clinic gold standard |
Dermaroller | 0.25–1.5 mm | Home or small clinics |
Nanoneedling tips | 0.15 mm | Product delivery, no collagen boost |
Stamps | 0.6–1.5 mm | Spot treatment |
Depth and speed are dialed up for scars or body areas and dialed down for thin skin around the eyes.
Upgrades: Radiofrequency and PRP
Microneedling-RF (MNRF)
Adds heat to shrink sebaceous glands and tighten deeper wrinkles.
Higher risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in skin of color.
Platelet-Rich Plasma (the “vampire facial”)
Your platelets release growth factors that accelerate healing and boost collagen.
Particularly helpful for acne scars and hair loss.
Benefits Beyond the Face
Neck and décolletage crepiness
Stretch marks on abdomen or thighs
Surgical or burn scars
Alopecia areata patches
At-Home Dermarollers: Worth It?
Most home rollers are reused, poorly sterilised, and often blunt. That means:
Microtears instead of clean channels
Risk of bacterial or viral infection (think herpes or warts)
Uneven pressure leading to track marks
Professional devices are single-use or autoclaved, depth-controlled, and handled in a sterile field. Your skin deserves the latter.
What Happens During a Professional Session?
Cleanse
Topical anaesthetic – 30-60 minutes
Dermapen stamping – depth and speed adjusted per zone (10–20 minutes)
Serum or PRP application
Total chair time: about 60-90 minutes.
Recovery Timeline
Day | What You See | Care Tip |
1–2 | Red, warm, mild swelling | Cool compress, gentle cleanser |
2–3 | Sandpaper texture | Hydrating serum, no actives |
4–6 | Light peeling or flaking | Barrier-repair cream, avoid scrubs |
6+ | Fresh, smoother skin | Resume full routine gradually |
How Many Sessions Do You Need?
Goal | Sessions | Interval |
Quick glow / exfoliation | 1–2 | 4 weeks |
Acne scars or mature skin | 4–6 | 4–6 weeks |
Pore tightening or hair growth | ≥3 | 2–4 weeks |
Contraindications and Safety
Avoid microneedling if you have:
Active acne, herpes, or fungal infections
Chronic inflammatory skin disorders (psoriasis, vitiligo, eczema flare)
Keloid tendency without specialist guidance
Recent isotretinoin use (<6 months)
Pregnant or nursing? Traditional microneedling is generally fine, but skip RF and numbing cream. Always consult your dermatologist first.
Post-Treatment Skincare
Cleanser (AM & PM)
Hydrating / Soothing Serum
La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Serum
SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 Gel
Barrier-Repair Moisturiser
EltaMD Barrier Renewal Complex
Avène Cicalfate+
Eucerin Advanced Repair Cream
Broad-Spectrum Mineral Sunscreen
Start 24 hours post-treatment, daily thereafter
EltaMD UV Physical SPF 41
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mineral SPF 50
Clinique Mineral Sunscreen Fluid SPF 30
Frequently Asked Questions
Is microneedling safe on dark skin?
Yes. Standard microneedling is color-blind because it uses mechanical injury only. Heat-based devices such as RF or aggressive chemical peels can trigger hyperpigmentation in Fitzpatrick IV–VI.
Can it worsen infections?
Yes. Never needle through active acne, cold sores, or dermatitis. Wait until the skin is calm.
Does it hurt?
With lidocaine cream, most patients report mild pressure only.
Is the collagen boost permanent?
Collagen laid down is your own and stays, but ageing continues. A yearly maintenance session keeps results topped up.
Key Takeaways
Microneedling excels at collagen-driven rejuvenation with minimal downtime.
Choose a licensed professional using single-use or properly sterilised needles.
Stick to gentle, hydrating skincare for the first week, then sunscreen forever.
At-home rollers carry more risk than reward.
Ready to schedule? Book a consult with a board-certified dermatologist to customise depth, device, and add-ons for your skin or scalp. Your future collagen will thank you.
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